Socializing Your New Puppy 

Your puppy will come to you with socialization started 

Make sure you continue this by placing the puppy on different surfaces 

Make sure you continue by having different noises that the puppy can hear 

If your puppy acts scared, ignore it. Do not comfort your puppy or you are approvng the scared behavior 

Puppies will go through fear periods and go backwards on many things as maturing (same as young children) 


Do not over stimulate your puppy when you get them to a new home. 

Remember, This is a PUPPY. Too Much Too Soon is not always a good thing.

Three books we recommend
 How to Raise the Perfect Dog: Through Puppyhood and Beyond by Cesar Millan and Melissa Jo Peltier (Sep 14, 2010) How to Raise a Puppy You Can Live With by Clarice Rutherford and David H. Neil (Apr 1, 2005) Raising Puppies & Kids Together by Pia Silvani and Lynn Eckhardt (May 1, 2005


RESOURCE GUARDING IN PUPPIES


Guarding things they consider valuable is a very normal, natural and necessary part of dog behavior. After all, survival is often based on being able to successfully get and hold onto things such as food. People guard resources as well, including houses, cars, and jewelry. However, for a dog to live safely and happily in a home he or she needs to clearly understand that guarding from people is not only unnecessary but also inappropriate.

Some dogs seem to have a stronger genetically based propensity towards resource guarding than others. But, as with most behavior issues, it is usually a bit of nature and nurture that plays a part. Some dogs guarding issues also seem to stem from the simple fact that they have been allowed by their people (albeit inadvertently) to guard things. For example, a young pup who is allowed to consistently grab things and run off to the corner to chew on them may well come to think that doing so is his or her right and if someone tries to take something back a battle of teeth on hands may ensue.

We all love our dogs so much that we usually give them just about everything they want in life for free. They can jump on us or the couch for attention, they have a basket of toys at their disposal, we serve them meals and water even if they jump madly about barking at us. In some of these cases a dog who is temperamentally inclined and is allowed to be pushy may make for a dog who basically takes control of what he or she wants in the home.

So, it is important to be careful not to 'kill with kindness.' That is, not to indulge your dog to point where you allow a potentially serious behavior issue to develop. Any dog will be even that much more loveable when they have a clear understanding not to guard resources from people.

As with any behavior problem, it is always easier and safer to focus on prevention rather than cure. If your dog is already presenting signs of having a resource guarding issue it is advisable to seek the assistance of an experienced, reward based trainer to help you in person.

In order to prevent resource guarding issues we need to condition our dogs to not only tolerate, but actually like something that doesn't necessarily come naturally to a dog. In this case, to respond promptly when we request them to give up objects.

Management - Management is a way of preventing problems from being practiced but also a way to help your dog understand that you control a valuable resource, i.e. his access to you and your home. Management is something we practice everyday in many ways with our dogs, including in the form of walking them on leash to keep them safe. When working on preventing behavior issues, management should be used intensely at first and then may gradually decrease depending on your dog's progress. For example, once you feel confident your dog is happily releasing things when you ask him or her to, you may choose not to use on leash supervision anymore (assuming your dog is housetrained and doesn't have other behavior issues you are also trying to prevent or resolve).

1. On Leash Supervision: When you are home and can supervise your dog keep him or her on a leash tethered nearby or while you hold it or step on it. This way you have a gentle and effective means of maintaining control. For example, if your dog is off leash and grabs something inappropriate to chew on you would have to chase after him or her to get it back. This scenario is likely to reinforce many inappropriate behaviors including playing keep away from you and guarding.

2. Short Term Confinement: When you can't your dog let him or her rest quietly in a crate, exercise pen or pet safe room.

3. Controlling Resources- Perhaps the most important part of any training protocol, controlling the things your dog wants in life is the first step in getting him or her to understand why paying attention to you and figuring out what you want is important. A dog that gets everything he or she wants in life for free is likely to have a hard time understanding why you (and listening to you) are valuable. Doggie resources are: 
-Food 
-Toys 
-Attention 
-Life Rewards (anything else you can think of your dog wants such as walking out the front door, being allowed to play with other dogs, sitting on the couch, etc.).

Get control of all of these things by not allowing your dog free, unlimited access to them and use training skills such as sit, down, come, etc. as a way to show your dog how to earn what he or she wants. That is, ask him or her to sit before getting a tummy rub, to hand target before getting dinner, to shake before going out for a walk, etc.

Training - Once you have focused on developing good management skills as outlined above you are ready to move on to working on specific anti-resource guarding exercises as a preventative.

1. Chew Toy and Bone Sharing - With your dog on a leash present a chew toy. Offer the chew toy to your dog to investigate and chew on for a moment while you hold one end. After a few moments, take it away and offer your dog a tiny, tasty treat from your other hand. As you progress with this game you can let go of the chew toy and gradually allow your dog to chew on it for longer before you take it away and give a treat. This is a simple, but wonderful interactive game for you and your dog. By continually taking objects away and replacing with an object/toy/treat of equal if not greater value your dog is sure to look forward to you doing so.

2. Food Bowl Bonuses - When you have time, hand feed your dog at least part of his or meals. This way you can put a bowl on the ground with a few pieces in it, reach to take it away and offer a piece or two from your other hand. You can also reach towards the bowl as after you place it down and toss in some food. You should also work with bonus, high value treats that you can offer occasionally when you reach towards the bowl.

3. Practice in Many Places, with Many Things - Playing these trading games as many times as you can in as many different environments and with as many different things as possible is a great way to help your dog learn to want to share everything!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/4507021

Parvovirus in Cockapoos

I have never found another page to explain Parvo so well as this one. 
www.marvistavet.com/html/body_how_parvo_infection_happens.html

Underbites in the Cockapoo

Both the Cocker Spaniel and the Poodle have underbites in the bloodlines. You never know where in a pedigree of a Cocker Spaniel as many breeders would "band" the teeth so that they would grow correctly. There are approx 7 or 8 different genes that cause an underbite. YOU ONLY NEED ONE to have this issue. Most underbites are purely cosmetic meaning that they will NEVER have an effect on the lifestyle of your dog. 

We, at OZ Cockapoos, are trying to elimiate this issue but we cannot "throw the baby out with the bath water" either. If it is as reported, and more than 50% of the Cockapoo population have this issue, we would be killing the gene pool of the Cockapoo and only be able to line breed.

Several breeds require that they have a squared off jaw (Boxer, Bulldog, etc.) and therefore an underbite is required. By getting a "more Cocker face" you do have a greater chance at an underbite as you want a squared off jawline. This in no way stops your puppy from being a fablous pet. It is not recommended that such a puppy be used for breeding. 

Any puppy with an underbite present will say so under the picture when available.



Urinary Tract Infections

UTI (Urinary Tract Infections) are very common in mainly female puppies. Since we raised Cockers for so many years prior to breeding Cockapoos, we have had a lot of experience in this area. Many Cocker females have a tilted vulva. This causes bacteria to sit at the base and not be able to be flushed out with the passing of urine. Sometimes it would be best to wait until after the first heat cycle to spay as that will expand the vulva area. If not, then you can have your vet expand the vulva for you at the time of spay. UTI are easy to treat with antibotics but may continue on and off until such time as spay or first heat. 


Giardia

Giardia are protozoans, tiny, one-celled parasitic life forms with the potential to cause serious illness. Some dogs are carriers who show no symptoms, but others get sick and need treatment. 

If the dog has an immature (puppy) or overburdened immune system, the trophozoites continue to multiply by dividing and can cause loose stool. 

Suffice to say, however, that Giardia is an equal opportunity disease that infects several species of animals. It is said to be a water based parasite. 
Example: Your dog drinks from a puddle of rain water (oops, it now has Giardia)
Very common and DO NOT PANIC.
96% of the time your dog's immune system can fight it off. Sometimes not as puppies.

Symptoms: Produce feces that are soft, light-colored, and greasy. 


Treatment:  In a recent study, Panacur (Fenbendazole), which is approved for use in treating dogs with roundworm, hookworm, and whipworm, has been shown to be effective in treating canine giardiasis. Panacur is safe to use in puppies at least six weeks of age. 

*We, at OZ Cockapoos, believe in prevention! We have all of our puppies on Panacur (small doses) for a 7-10 day period before going to new homes. This is an excellent source for worming as well as prevention of this issue. *
Does this mean your puppy will not get Giardia? No. It just means we have done everything in our power to prevent it.

Coccidia

Another of those fun parasites that puppies can get.

Coccidia are small protozoans (one-celled organisms) that live in the intestinal tracts of dogs and cats. They cause disease most commonly in puppies and kittens less than six months of age, in adult animals whose immune system is suppressed, or in animals who are stressed in other ways (e.g.; change in ownership, other disease present).

As a puppy ages, he tends to develop a natural immunity to the effects of coccidia.

A puppy is not born with the coccidia organisms in his intestine. However, once born, the puppy is frequently exposed to his mother's feces, then the young animals will likely ingest them and coccidia will develop within the young animal's intestines. Since young puppies, usually those less than six months of age, have no immunity to coccidia, the organisms reproduce in great numbers and parasitize the young animal's intestines. 

What are the symptoms of coccidiosis? 

The primary sign of an animal suffering with coccidiosis is diarrhea. The diarrhea may be mild to severe depending on the level of infection. Blood and mucous may be present, especially in advanced cases. 

Most infected puppies are in the four to twelve week age group. The possibility of coccidiosis should always be considered when a loose stool or diarrhea is encountered in this age group. A microscopic fecal exam by a veterinarian will detect the cysts confirming a diagnosis.

It should be mentioned that stress plays a role in the development of coccidiosis. It is not uncommon for a seemingly healthy puppy to arrive at his new home and develop diarrhea several days later leading to a diagnosis of coccidia. 


What is the treatment of coccidiosis? 

Fortunately, coccidiosis is treatable. Drugs such as sulfadimethoxine (Albon®) and trimethoprim-sulfadiazine (Tribrissen®) have been effective in the treatment and prevention of coccidia. Because these drugs do not kill the organisms, but rather inhibit their reproduction capabilities, elimination of coccidia from the intestine is not rapid. By stopping the ability of the protozoa to reproduce, time is allowed for the puppy's own immunity to develop and remove the organisms. Drug treatments of one to three weeks are usually required.


 Anywhere fecal matter is, Coccidia can be present. Vet Hospitals, Dog parks, Neighborhoods, etc.

Flies can mechanically carry coccidia from one place to another. 

The coccidia species of dogs and cats do not infect humans.

Again DO NOT PANIC! This is something mainly due to the immune system of the puppy not being fully developed. 


Just a couple things...

#1. DO NOT ALLOW YOUR PUPPY TO RUN AROUND ANYWHERE OTHER DOGS HAVE BEEN THAT YOU DO NOT KNOW UNTIL ALL VACCINATIONS ARE FINISHED. This includes airports, dog parks, pet stores (examples are Petco and PetSmart), basically anywhere your puppy can contract Parvo, any other virus' and canine flu. Even though your puppy is vaccinated, it does not mean your puppy will not get it, just that they might live through it.

#2. DO NOT ALLOW YOUR PUPPY TO BE HELD NON STOP. Puppies that are excited about new families will forget to eat and drink. A puppy that is played with and held all of the time will run down and get sick from not eating a drinking. Puppies have a go go go attitude and need you to stop them sometimes. 



These are just some of the reasons we want our puppies on NuVet vitimans. NuVet helps the development of the immune system.

These are some, hopefully, helpful instructions for all of our puppy buyers.




Feeding and Watering 

We feed Royal Canine Mini puppy  food

Approx 1/2 a cup per feeding to be lowered or raised as the puppy matures 

We will sometimes add vanilla yogurt and will moisten at times with water

Puppy will eat around  6:30 - 7am EST 

put down for puppy or place in puppies crate 

give puppy 15 minutes to eat 

take up food and put unused portion in fridge 

feed again at 1:30-2pm EST until 12 weeks 

Feed last time about 5:30 -6 pm 

Water should be made avb all day until four hours before bedtime for the humans






Behavior Issues  ALSO READ ABOUT RESOURCE GUARDING ABOVE

If puppy bites..... 

Say NO very firmly if this does not work.... 

make a big deal of the bite by saying OUCH loudly. if this does not work.... 

Try a small scruff shake and say NO firmly 

You can also try methods where you have puppy on its back and you hold the mouth firmly closed and say NO 

Buy or Borrow "How to raise a puppy you can live with" a fabulous book for ALL dog owners! 

If puppy barks.... 

Water bottles are the best and least damaging form or training 

If puppy cries in crate and will not be quiet... 

does puppy have to eliminate? 

if not then make sure crate is in quiet area 

this prevents the puppy from thinking it is missing out on something 

Then you can cover the crate like you would a bird if the puppy does not be quiet 

If after this the puppy will still not be quiet, give me a call and we will discuss other options 






If puppy tries to chew.... 

Say good "puppy" and tell the puppy to bring you the object 

this will stop the puppy from chewing by positive means 

you will get tired of your puppy bringing you everything but it will stop chewing up things 

if puppy chews on furniture... 

say no and give it a chew toy 

NEVER use old shoes or socks for toys (puppies cannot determine which are used and which are new) 

put bitter apple or hot sauce on object 

crate puppy when you leave the house so both your puppy and your stuff is safe 

If puppy runs after and bites at children.... 

by children running this makes the puppy think of a fun game 

puppies will think of children as littermates 

when children greet puppy make sure it is from above so the puppy sees them as alpha 

For the first few weeks, until alpha positions are enforced, make sure children do not play with puppy on the floor 

this will make the puppy not see the children as alpha and will think it can "boss" them around 

Puppy kindergarten is a great way for the entire family to help in training the puppy 

If you have any questions that are not covered please email at cockapoobabies@yahoo.com or 608-408-9077



House Breaking Tools 101


1. Rule out medical first. Some dogs have urinary tract infections and that is the cause of the constant urination. The medicine that they prescribe for a cure also will cause them to drink more water so you will have to be aware of that factor also.

2. Get a "clicker" or use the word "YES" when your dog is outside and has eliminated click and treat 3 times very quickly. You are trying to capture the timing to teach the dog outside is where to go. Do not let your dog run around or take more than 1 step before you click and treat 3 times with a higher treat than a training treat. 

3. Pick up your dogs "ques" to what behavior/ritual they have right before they go potty. There is about 3-5 patterns they give you. You must find what they are. It could be a slight as a look in your direction. It could be that the dog starts to waddle before they eliminate. They could circle a few times. Some try and sneak off. You have to find the ques so if you see them inside you know exactly what to look for. Watch them every time they go to potty for about a week solid and you should have at least 3 of the 5 ques by then.

4. Know what they are consuming by charting the food and water for a week. Make a chart from Monday to Sunday and from the time you wake up to the time you go to bed. Put a Symbol for pee and a symbol for poop. Chart the food and water intake of your dog for a week. You will start to see what their schedule is. You need to know what the intake to know when they will eliminate.

5. Make a line on the water bowl with a wax pencil or a crayon. Keep the water level the same always so if they drink a little or a lot you will know how many pee pees are expected from each time your dog drinks water.

6. Measure the food out exactly with a small measuring cup so you will know exactly what your dog has consumed. Do not mound the cup level it off every time.

7. There is an umbilical cord [the leash] between you and your dog if they are inside till your dog is house broken. You have to look at your dog as a 6 month old crawling baby with out a diaper on. You would never let a crawling baby out of your sight!!

8. Introduce the word that means go potty. Just one word for both functions. Since you will be watching your dog's rear for a week you will know what the ques are. As you see this behavior or ritual they do right before they eliminate you should start saying the word. I make the word sound exciting but not distracting. As they are eliminating I say with a monotone voice "good potty" then the second they are done I exp-lode in excitement. Remember dogs pair things together. We want them to pair the word with the desired behavior.

9. Only if you catch the dog in the act can you scold them. If they are going to the bathroom I say "NO" in a strong voice. Just loud enough to stop them from finishing. I scoop them up and take them outside and start saying the potty command. Remember Alphas do not hold anger!!

10. Changing the imprinting from a flat surface to a textured surface is difficult but can be done. At this point in house breaking you have to prevent the mistake from happening. You need to set a timer for every 20 minutes if your home and take the dog out. Remember you have to look at your puppy as a 6 month old crawling baby without a diaper on!!! So you would never let a baby out of your sight at that age so you do the same with a puppy.

11. After your dog has eliminated DO NOT bring them immediately back inside. Play with them for at least 5 minutes so they do not associate eliminating as the trigger that takes them away from being outside.